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| Tools
of the trade... |
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Some useful tools and workspace prep tips... |
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| "Use those cans of pressurized "air" that are normally used for
cleaning computers and keyboards as a way to blow all of the sanded down particulates out
of nooks and crannies in your spackling job or off of your deck or work surface or whatever.
People look at you funny when you buy a bunch of cans of that stuff all at once like you're
some sort of inhalant hype, but there's nothing prohibiting you from buying as much of that
as you want at a time"- The_Green_Monkey |
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| "To prevent dings and dents in the board you're working on, duct tape a
layer or two of paper towel around the edges and borders of your work
bench. I also have duct taped a big patch of paper towel flat in the
center of my work surface, just so I can set the deck down without having
to worry about scuffing it or anything. When it gets dusty or messy, you
can just pull it up and put down a new layer of padding. My personal
preference for brand of paper towel to have handy in the resto lab is
Kleenex brand paper towels. They're much sturdier than average, very
absorbant for dabbing at misapplied paint, and don't tend to disintegrate
into lots of little fibers that will get into your paint and shit and mess
everything up. They have a strength and consistancy similar to Box O'
Rags shop towels. (When I'm a gazillionaire I'm going to use Box O' Rags
towels instead of paper towels in my kitchen, but right now they're just
too damned expensive for a majority of kitchen uses...)
" - The_Green_Monkey
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| "ANGLED
foam sanding blocks. A true godsend. I have
a bunch (8?) of them in both fine and medium
grains. I'd recommend having more foam sanding
blocks than you think you'll need, because
they'll fill up with whatever you're sanding
(paint, spackling compound especially) and
lose their grittyness until you wash them,
and you really can't do any more work with
them until they've dried out. They're great
for when you're rebuilding a worn down tail
and you want the spackled/rebuilt area to
be flush with the plane of the wood. They
don't curve like a regular rectangular block
has a slight tendency to do, so you can get
a perfectly unnoticeable seam between wood
and spackle. I took one of them and cut it
in half (perpendicular to the angled side),
and then cut one of the halves into quarters.
These smaller angled pieces are good for working
on sanding smaller areas without disturbing
everything else within a 3" radius like a
normal rectangular block might. " - The_Green_Monkey
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Got Tips?
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Think you have some good restoration tricks and tips? Want to share
your tales of restoration trials and tribulations with others?
Well, drop us a line and let us hear about it!
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